Driver Side Hub
Now that the passenger’s side is done, time for the repeat performance for the driver’s side. So I started disassembly and found a surprise. WTF is this kind of workmanship? Hidden behind the rotor, that I couldn’t see before, I found a bad bag alignment job from years ago when I installed it. And as that just doesn’t cut the mustard mister, I had to remove the bracket and bag, machine, and reinstall.
'
'
Ahhhh. Much better.
'
Now, where was I before I was so rudely interrupted by the effing air bag. Oh yes. Disassembly. As I don’t have one of those fancy Dodge removal tools, I use a C clamp and a really big socket to press the lower bearing race out.
'
'
U joint replacement….
'
'
'
Fast forward through new bearings and kingpins…
'
Hub assembly….
'
'
'
'
'
Hub install…brakes…
'
New grease nipple install…
'
And that completes the driver’s side! Yay!! Airbag looks good too.
'
'
And as somehow Andy ended up at my place yet again, he got the rear brakes done with new shoes and wheel cyls. Not that they needed them or anything. 😉
'
'
'
'
'
That allowed us to then bleed the brakes and after a few leaks found and repaired, to have a solid pedal and brakes that can now be used! 🙂
Small Things:
Back again to smaller items, next up was cowl install. After a wash from sitting and getting dusty, it was a quick paint of the plastic squirters and then to install:
'
'
Also the rear window was painted, and prepped for tinting.
'
'
Then to save the tint shop from having to climb over the tall backed SRT buckets once installed, I took the window to the tint shop to have it pre tinted. Sadly, the tint shop didn’t take good care of me even though I have run multiple vehicles through the shop over the years. They got dust under the tint, and then they damaged the fresh painting that I had done in the above photos. They told me I didn’t need a good tint job as it is “just an old truck and it doesn’t matter. Take the window and stop complaining”. They also accused me of lying to them and saying the window had not just been painted and the scratches were not theirs. Was a bit unfortunate of a situation. Thankfully the glass was not damaged so the tint was stripped off and it is now at another facility. Amazes me people can be so arrogant and they can still stay in business. This is what they gave me back:
Bubbles:
'
More bubbles:
'
Ooooh. How’s this for strait cutting?
'
Took it to another shop, fast forward 3 weeks, old film removed, new film on, and it has been returned in good condition. 🙂 Install is coming soon to a truck near you….
'
Next up is the headlight switch panel. As I have a recall memory tach, I will need a place to put the switch that allows me to program and recall. So the location of the factory power mirror controls was decided on the right spot to be. So a CNC file was made to etch in the words that I needed:
'
Then the setup and cutting began…
'
'
And then after 2 hours of a tooth pick, some white model car paint, and a cramped neck from trying not to shake, this was the end result.
'
Coolers:
Next up on my list was to get the diff and tranny coolers done. I had ordered two self priming Tilton pumps that are used on race cars to help keep my diff and 5600 cool when heaving towing in the hills. Last thing you want to do is let up because your diff is getting warm. So between the pump and a rad with fan, I can keep it around that 140F mark regardless of conditions.
So my first step after laying out the plans in my head, was to make the mounts for the pumps. These would be fairly easy. I started with a steel plate that would be chopped down, drilled, tapped, and ready for test fit on the rear suspension factory crossmember.
'
'
'
'
'
The front pump was a bit easier riding on the top of the crossmember vs a vertical mount like the rear.
'
Next was to get the coolers mounted. One will go above the rear pinion area, the other, will be towards the front of the box.
I started with some flat stock and some angle iron cut to size so I could create a shelf for the cooler mount tab to sit on. The other size would bolt to the top of the fuel tank crossmember so it was even easier consisting of a flat stock bar drilled.
'
'
'
Mounted into the truck it looks like this:
'
For the tranny cooler, that would get a mount between the frame rails of the box. Again I started with flat stock, only this time I formed them to match the box cross member angle profile with the step in the bracket to hold the cooler up higher to clean the air tank.
'
'
'
Basically looks like this mounted to the brackets:
'
'
Mounted in the truck:
'
And if you look closely, you can see both coolers mounted here:
'
Fast forward a few weeks….parts are now back from paint:
'
So with it time to actually install the pump, I first needed to clock the pump head so it would flow oil the proper direction. As the oil from the source will be hot, you always want to draw through the following cycle:
Diff/tranny Filter Cooler Pump Diff/Tranny
That order is used so it comes from source, filters the oil so nothing plugs the small oil lines, goes through the cooler then goes through the pump and returned. Why not go from the diff/tranny and push it through the system vs suck it through? By doing it the above way, the pump is always dealing with cool fluids through its seals. The cool fluid keeps the pump cool too. This ensures longer pump life.
So the cap was popped on both pumps and the heads were clocked 180 deg.
'
Not much in there really in case you were curious too.
'
Assembly began….
'
Coolers Part 2:
Now for the tranny and diff to be able to pump fluid, we will need a suction and a return hose. This will allow hot fluid to be sucked out and cold fluid to return. So I will need to have two threaded hose barbs mounted into both the Mag Hytec diff cover and the tranny PTO cover.
So Andy started on the diff cover first.
'
Pilot mark…
'
Drilled:
'
And then the hole was tapped with a 3/8 npt tap allowing the barb to thread in:
'
For the PTO cover, that isn’t as simple as just being tapped as the material is too thin for a good hold. It will require a bung to be welded on to give more meat for the threads. So I started off making a few bungs out of a steel rod. I put them into the lathe for quick machining:
'
'
'
'
That gave me these:
'
Popped the pto cover off….
'
'
Next I welded two on. The bottom is suction beside the tranny temp probe. The top is return.
'
'
Paint and reinstall…. You can also see the in line magenefine tranny filter so collect any unwanted debris from the fluid.
'
'
Back to the diff, the cover was installed, filter placed in line, and the hoses run between all the points:
'
Coolers Part 3
Last step was filling. In order the get the correct amount of lube in the diff taking into account the empty hoses, cooler, pump, etc, the system is best primed direct from the container and the return goes into the diff/tranny and you keep an eye on it until it is full level mark. For the rear diff, I run 75W110 synthetic Mobil 1 as I plan to be putting some stress on this diff with towing. The tranny is filled with correct spec Pensoil Synchromesh.
So I stuck the hose into the bucket and let the pump suck it out, and start filling the diff! 🙂
'
'
Same for tranny…
'
'
And then once done, all was connected and done!
'
'
And the final installed look:
'
'
'
'